Fade To Black

So the next step in the inexorable plod toward completion consists of working the panel lines with black artists' chalk. I drew a line across each panel line then went back and rubbed it in with a rag (a discarded t-shirt). The chalk made the panel lines pop along with the recesses of the topside grating. It also helped mellow the roof brown paint. The top half has been worked, the bottom half is next.

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Paint Test Take II

After getting some advice from Greg McKellar, I took another run at a base coat for Nautilus. Greg's suggestion was to use a light coat of Roof Brown applied sparingly over the gray primer. This produced a very neat look, much better than the dark gray/brown on the wheelhouse and dorsal fin.

Of course there's much more work to do than this. But I really like the start. And if your monitor setting makes it look a little green, don't worry. It's brownish in real life.

When my wife first saw it she was amazed at the difference. "It's been gray for so long it almost doesn't look right." I know what she means. Once it sets up a bit I'll flip her over and do the underside.

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A Darker Shade of Nautilus

Well, I made my first attempt at painting the exterior of the static boat. I followed the paint mix ratios in the instructions, however, it did not turn out like I expected. Way too dark. It's a great color for shadows and panels lines I would expect. Just not what I had in mind for an overall "look". I think I needed more of the Euro Gray in the blend.

"If you didn't like it, then why put on so much?" you might ask. Having been removed from the project for so long it felt good to be doing something. And the airbrush was laying it down like velvet. I just couldn't stop!

I greatly admire the work done below by Greg McKellar on his Gen 3 static build. His is more what I hope to achieve. Yes, the comparison makes the dark seem darker...

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Prop Spin

In order to provide a spinnable prop, the stock mouting shaft can't be used. I didn't want to install a motor for the static display but I did want to be able to see it turn on demand. So I bashed together a solution based on the stock mounting shaft.

A stainless 3/16" shaft was used along with a flange type oilite bronze bearing. With a wheel collar on the back side and some found pieces glued to the shaft on the outside to capture the shaft on the bearing, the bearing will be glued in place on the hull allowing the shaft to spin. The prop will be glued on the shaft once it is installed in the hull. Simple; easy; works.

Pics to come.

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