Thursday, August 28, 2008

Helm Rail

Well, the rail behind the helm station turned out to be a piece of cake compared to the stair well.

Used the same procedure as before with a little rearrangement of the order. First, I used one half of a wooden clothespin as a form and bent the un-annealed brass wire into the proper shape. It was the perfect shape of the rail. I bent each end, one at a time, around the end of the clothespin. I cut the rectangle at the point where the rail went through the bottom leg of a support.

Next, I searched for the proper form for the curve of the rail. I measured it out and determined a cylinder with a 2.25" radius would work best. I finally found an air freshener spray can that fit the bill. Then, after annealing the wire to make it more malleable, I bent it around the can.

The supports slipped on one at a time at the joint in the wire. The upper supprt hole was strung on the wire and moved around until the lower hole lined up. It was slipped onto the wire then moved down. I arranged it so the break in the wire fit in the lower hole of a support. It was all secured with CA and the break in the wire is hardly visible.

I drilled two holes I marked in the deck for the proper placement of the supports and secured the assembly in place with two drops of 5 minute epoxy.

With the railings completed, it's just a matter of gluing in the rest of the sub-assemblies such as the helm, control levers, depth tube, etc.

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Monday, August 25, 2008

So Long, Stair Well

Finally got the railing to the stair well finished.

The circular rails were made from .045 brass rod. I prepared them prior to bending via a process called annealing. I heated the brass with a small butane torch and then quenched them in water. This made the brass much more malleable than its original state. I bent it easily around a 1" wooden dowel. After drilling out the support pieces I threaded the rings through and CA'd them to the deck.

For the spiral staircase well the CR instructions recommend a 1" id clear acrylic tube. I couldn't find one in the local hobby shops or hardware stores so I opted for the next best thing: a 1 1/4" PVC end cap. I sprayed the interior flat black, drilled a hole in the bottom for the brass rod center support and glued it to the underside of the deck with 5-minute epoxy.

As an side, I'm really getting used to the quick cure epoxy -- apart from the smell. It sets up fast with a strong bond. For static builds it's great. I realize now how prejudiced against it my r/c past had made me -- 5-minute epoxy not being waterproof. But I'm using it more and more as I go.

The rails were completed with two sections connecting the rings to the center pole. CR recommends a 1/8" diameter rod for the pole. But to me it looked too thick so I traded down a size or two.

The ball on top of the pole is a 4mm gold bead from the fabric store. I filled the center with a small length of brass rod. I left the center pole in unpolished brass, along with the rails. I think it looks better (the pole and stairs were painted in the movie). I brushed the white metal rail supports with gold enamel.

I've got to say this step was one of the most tedious of the build. And super close images show where the rails and supports are out of alignment. However, with the wheelhouse covering it the flaws will be very difficult to see through the windows. I'm satisfied with the look.

Next stop is the helm rail. Will it be easier or worse...?

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Wednesday, August 20, 2008

In Praise of Beginner Subs

Or "Everything I Needed to Know About R/C Subs I Learned From My Permit"

Had a conversation with a new member of the r/c sub community last week and it brought to mind the central issue for the newbie: what to build first?

Most of us are drawn to the hobby with visions of grandeur swimming in our heads. For me it was the ultimate fleet boat: 1/32 scale; fully detailed down to the last rivet; operational masts and radar; ten working torpedo tubes; diesel sounds when on the surface; running lights. I actually found a 32nd Parallel hull. It sat on my dining room table for a few weeks, hanging over each end by several feet, before it hit me -- I can't do this.

So many of my fellow skippers experienced the same crossroads starting out. The boat of their dreams was beyond their earthly means. What separated the ones who continue on in the hobby and those who don't? The "Beginner Sub."

The beginner sub is large enough to run in open water (Wal-Mart subs are toys). They come almost ready to run (Small World Model's boats), or in a highly prefabricated kit form (SubTech Albacore, Dumas Akula, ThorDesign Permit). Either way the box includes detailed instructions. Note that "beginner" doesn't mean "cheap." These are real r/c subs that stand up under use and perform like their real world counterparts. In most cases, Dumas Akula excluded, they are highly accurate scale models.

But why waste time building a boat you don't lay awake at night dreaming about? Simple. Instead of dreaming you will actually be driving, sooner rather than never. A beginner boat teaches you the things you don't yet know you need to know. Things like the fact that 5 minute epoxy isn't waterproof; how to install a WTC so that it sits level in the hull; setting up stern plane linkages around a prop shaft.

What the new guy can't know is that building the scale representation of a submarine is only one aspect of r/c submarining. You've also got to master submarine-specific electronics and how to keep them dry while in use. Trimming is an additional art that only comes through patient trial and error. The skill with which it is done means the difference between a pig of a boat or a sub that dances to your command. Because it takes skill to get r/c subs to run the way they were born to. Skill that can only be gained by stick time.

That's what beginner subs boil down to when laid alongside the jaw dropping museum pieces of our imaginations: they get completed in a reasonable amount of time and they run. They don't have to be perfectly within scale, they don't even have to look particularly pretty. They just need to be ready to run when the call comes down to go to the pond. Because r/c submarines are way more fun to drive than watch being driven.

And once your beginner sub is done you'll have plenty of time and space to tinker with your large scale Disney Nautilus project. They're what work benches are for.
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Tuesday, August 05, 2008

SubRegatta 2008

Several SubRon5 buddies went to SubRegatta 2008 in Carmel, Indiana this past weekend: Wayne Frey, Jeff Porteous, Tom Kisler. Preliminary reports from Jeff point to a great event that everyone enjoyed. Jeff and Tom traveled on to tour Cobia and Silversides. When they get back home they should have a more thorough report and some pictures. In the meantime, you can see some shots posted on the message boards at SubCommittee.com.
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About Me

The first movie I saw in a theater was Disney's "20,000 Leagues Under the Sea" (1971 re-release). The first grown-up book I read was "War Fish" by George Grider. Built hundreds of plastic kits growing up. Saw an article on The SubCommittee in the mid 90's and joined. Began first foray into radio controlled subs in 1998.

Current Projects

1/32 scale Disney Nautilus (Custom Replicas kit).
1/96 scale USS Helena (SSN-725) (ThorDesign kit).
1/72 scale USS Permit-class (HMK kit)

Completed Boats

1/96 scale Permit-class modeled as USS Thresher (SSN-593).
1/96 scale Los Angeles-class modeled as USS Jefferson City (SSN-759).

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